Coffee cup in hand, I step on the patio and take in the view of the emerald ocean. Palm trees sway in the breeze and the sunshine is already abundant even if it’s only 7 am. Normally, I’m not a morning person, but this is a great incentive! Belize knows how to welcome me to my first Caribbean vacation!
Day 1
The trip didn’t start smoothly: flying from Denver, we found ourselves in Wichita, KS for a few hours, waiting out nasty storms in Dallas, TX. On our flight from Dallas to Belize City, we got to learn all about this guy’s life (and I mean ALL). He went on (loudly, for hours, barely a breath taken in between words) about his credentials (profession, education, etc.), then proceeded to share his personal life, complete with ex-wife stories and bafflement about why he was still single; so many words… Uhm, I wanted to raise my hand: “I know, I know!” Bless his heart! At least he really seemed in touch with his feelings.
Eventually, we made it to Belize City late in the evening. We we spent the night at the Best Western Plus Belize Biltmore Plaza, which was lovely. There was nothing open, so we purchased some measly snacks (paid in US dollars, rather than Belize dollars – be sure to clarify, since 1 US = 2 Belize).
Day 2
First thing the next morning, we got a taxi to the port and hopped on the hour and a half ferry to Ambergris Caye. As the open boat picked up speed, we got pummeled by the wind and blaring conversations. Luckily, I had a wrap that kept my hair mostly tamed. An air-conditioned van met us at the port then dropped us off at our beachside AirBnB called Tara del Sol.
Our friends John and Jodi welcomed us; they had arrived earlier and visited Guatemala before Belize. Lunch was local fare at Somewhere South, a casual joint within a few minutes’ walking distance from our stay. We savored crab cakes and Belikin Belizean beer under the watchful eye of iguanas who got even friendlier when we tossed them lettuce scraps. The staff bounced back and forth between tending to our requests and working on assembling prize baskets for the upcoming Kentucky Derby celebrations.
In the evening, we took snacks and drinks up the winding staircase to the rooftop terrace. The view of the water was superb and the sunset spectacular.
Day 3
We had planned on eating what the guys caught on the fishing outing organized with the help of our concierge. I was fully expecting to lose some weight… To our pleasant surprise, they returned with a boat-full of snapper and a few Spanish mackerel! There’s nothing better than fresh fish! We gladly consumed fish ceviche, fish tacos, and fish dinners for the rest of the trip. That and sweet, juicy mangos, papayas, passion fruit, and pineapples bought at the local fruit and vegetable stand.
While the guys went fishing, the three of us ladies hopped in our rented golf cart and drove to the other side of the island to Secret Beach. Upon arriving, Jodi was inspired not to stop at the first “free parking” sign. Several offers for free parking came, but Jodi took us to the very last beach resort: what a treat! We were welcomed to shaded lounge chairs or picnic tables perched in the water. The staff came by to take our drink and food orders. We sipped on coconut water and went for relaxing swims in warm shallow waters.
While we were chilling, a jovial local man approached and presented us with hand-carved figurines: turtles, birds, and sting rays. We found out that his name was Leroy Welch and he had been recognized by the Belize Tourism Board as the Frontline Person of the Year in 2017. He told us about growing up on the island, learning how to wood-carve while serving a bit of time as a youth, then getting married and being the happy father of two children.
Days 4 & 5
Next, David (my husband) worked on his certification dives, alongside our friends (diving veterans) Bob, Katie, John and Jodi.
Meanwhile, I did absolutely nothing for a couple of days, and it felt great! I parked myself on one of the lounging chairs on the patio and read. A constant breeze kept me cool even if it was in the mid-80s and humid. The soundtrack was the soothing whoosh of wind in the trees, gentle lapping of waves, and occasional squeals of delight coming from the pool next door. This was my first time in the Caribbean—why did I wait so long?
I did join them for a couple of snorkeling dips, one by the reef populated by colorful fish, and one farther out among nurse sharks. It was weird jumping in the middle of the shark party but we were assured that these sharks are not only non-violent but also completely uninterested in humans unless we had food for them.
Soaking wet, we still took some time to walk through San Pedro and do a little shopping. I had to have some artwork from Gallery 501: a couple of prints of traditional dancers.
Day 6
We celebrated Cinco de Mayo with amazing tacos and margaritas at the nearby beachside restaurant Hula Hut. For $40/person, the 6 of us scarfed down 40 tacos (pork, shrimp, chicken), 12 tequila shots (the shots came with each of the two rounds of 20 tacos), and 12 margaritas!
On our way to the bar, we took a shortcut walking along the beach through the brush but after all the drinks, we decided it was best to stick to the main road coming back…
Day 7
For our last day on the island, we all headed out to Secret Beach. John and Katie got relaxing massages on the dock. We swam and snorkeled, lounged, snacked, and sipped—a perfectly relaxing beach day! We chatted with more of the locals and staff. Nathan (whom we recognized from our first trip to Secret Beach) shared that he only comes to the island for the tourist season. He lives in a small village on main land and loves having a tight-knit community there. We said hello to Leroy again and he readily shared a few laughs and blessings.
On the way back, we stopped to check out a few street-side vendors. I picked a colorful embroidered table runner, a conch necklace, and a hat for David (his previous hat having gone with the wind). The vendor lady was very nice and blessed me for having shopped at her place.
For dinner, we walked to the Black Orchid Restaurant & Bar, an upscale family restaurant that’s been in business for 13 years. We were immediately welcomed and sat across a wall decor that resembled a Mayan pyramid. The food was good and we enjoyed getting to know our waitress Jor. She was a very lovely lady, mother of five and island native with the biggest smile I’ve ever seen.
Day 8
Bright and early, we piled into a taxi and reached the pier in time for the 8 am ferry to the mainland. The boat ride back wasn’t windy (the boat was closed off), so it was a bit more relaxing.
Looking to my left, I caught a glimpse of a familiar face and a jacket with an orange T. It’s a small world! It was someone I recognized who used to work at the University of Tennessee in Knoxville where I worked for a number of years. We both had moved on since but it was funny saying “Go Vols!” while sailing on Caribbean waters.
From the port, we got into another taxi to the airport. The driver shared stories about Belize and the city. He mentioned the river that runs through the city and how the locals prefer picnicking and swimming in the river than the ocean. He explained that the north side of town is the safe side, while the gangs are located across the river. When something bad happens, usually a retaliation between gangs, the city shuts down the bridges, rounds up the gangs, and locks them up for up to 6 months. We also found out that Belizeans don’t feel safe in Guatemala, where the military government is a threat, but prefer to shop in Mexico for cheaper things (or just on the border of Guatemala). He mentioned that Belize is in the path of hurricanes but luckily only a couple of them were category fives. Normally, the destruction comes from a lot of wind and prolonged heavy rain.
Once at the airport, we had to fill out forms for the customs. The security was thorough for such a small place but also surprisingly fast. With time to spare, we checked out the food and shops. I loaded up on chocolate and something called Tableta Stiky, a coconut, ginger, and brown sugar yumminess which I found at the Toucan Tu-Tu Tango store.
The trip back to Denver was luckily uneventful (and we got to scarf down some Texas BBQ in Dallas!). Bonus: all four of our friends were able to get on the earlier flight with us. A rainy and cool Denver welcomed us back home, and we slept like (drift wood?) logs, dreaming of the warm Caribbean.
La Isla Bonita – Overall Impressions
My first trip to the Caribbean left me with a warm feeling and good memories. The best part about it was the people, warm and welcoming. I loved seeing the “Be Kind” signs posted throughout the island!
