Living in the Rockies is amazing. However, every year I get the siren call of the sea and for that I need to leave Colorado. This year we headed to the East Coast and took a familiar drive to the beaches of South Carolina. From our former home state of Tennessee, Charleston, Folly Beach, and Isle of Palms were a short and scenic six-hour car ride away. We flew into Knoxville, then after a short reunion with good friends, we hopped in a rental car and headed out.
We followed the winding road through the mountains of North Carolina before hitting the all familiar stretch of straight path to the bay. As per our usual, we found an AirBnB, this time aiming to be closer to Folly Beach. The listing enticed us with a cozy place and proximity to the beach. However, this was one of the two AirBnB listings that disappointed in person in the many years we’ve rented through the company… I don’t look for fancy places but I do have a minimum requirement of cleanliness and indoor pluming/facilities. This one had a bohemian outdoor shower (which is fine, since it’s a beach abode), but went a bit far to feature only a curtain and lush vegetation growing inside. The indoor bathroom featured the same type of “door,” or lack thereof: a curtain. Dust adorned every surface in the tiny kitchen and under the cabinets, while the boho bed was a mattress on the ground, more suitable for a summer escape for teenagers than for grown adults. Luckily, the mattress was comfortable and we were also able to find a different AirBnB for our second night on the island, five minutes away from the first location.
The second location was the opposite of the first, featuring a king size bed in a huge room and a large back yard, complete with firepit and chairs. We relaxed under the canopy of old trees—that is until nature served us with prime seats to the murder show: a hawk swooped into the yard and proceeded to snack on a snake, with a cacophony of alarmed bird calls in the background.
We headed into Folly Beach town and we found parking on a side road beside a church, then quickly reached the Pier. We kicked our shoes off and walked on the soft and still cool sand; we dipped a toe in the water (well, all toes, really); I closed my eyes and took a deep breath. We walked on the pier past fishermen focused on catching the day’s winning fish (there was a competition going on for who caught the biggest fish). Perched on white and bright blue beach chairs, we completely relaxed, listening to the sounds of waves, kids playing in the sand, and seagulls circling above.
The small gift shop at on the pier lured us in and I just had to get beach inspired little gifts for friends (and also for myself, because why not?). After rinsing off the sand and salt at the outdoor showers under the pier, we looked for seafood fare. Our friends had recommended The Obstinate Daughter, two-time James Beard Award nominated new American bistro located in a chic area on Sullivan’s Island. Surprisingly, there wasn’t much in terms of seafood available. I settled on the Obstinate Flatbread with butterbean puree and a decadent Frogmore Chowder, both delicious and very filling. On our way back to the car, we popped into a local art shop and picked up a couple of goodies. I absolutely LOVE small art stores in beach towns—there’s just something so soothing and beautiful about them.
We also made friends with the bartender at Coconut Joe’s on Folly Beach, listening to his life’s adventures while scarfing down a Crabstack Sandwich. The Folly Beach Crab Shack has a nostalgic tint to it for me, as it reminds me of my parents’ visit to the U.S. in the early 2000s. Unfortunately, I found the place to be changed, maybe more touristy, and the food too salty while lacking the generous amount of actual seafood (the crab and artichoke dip had mostly cheese sauce and maybe a couple of hits of crab meat). Maybe it was just my mood but I don’t know…
In Charleston, we walked among blooming oleanders—bright fuchsia and white—and admired the classic architecture around us. We made the obligatory stroll through The Historic Charleston City Market on Church Street and walked along the water in the historic part of town.
South Carolina holds its charm for us and we left the beach reluctantly but feeling grateful for having had another pleasant coastal getaway.
